{"id":136,"date":"2024-11-13T16:30:24","date_gmt":"2024-11-13T15:30:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/?p=136"},"modified":"2024-11-25T10:58:01","modified_gmt":"2024-11-25T09:58:01","slug":"napisu-si-te-na-koule-cesta-pres-balkan-do-recka","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/2024\/11\/13\/napisu-si-te-na-koule-cesta-pres-balkan-do-recka\/","title":{"rendered":"Nap\u00ed\u0161u si t\u011b na koule! Cesta p\u0159es Balk\u00e1n do \u0158ecka"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Balk\u00e1n jsou antibiotika na z\u00e1n\u011bt st\u0159edn\u00edho ucha bez p\u0159edpisu, nejslad\u0161\u00ed nektarinky, agresivn\u00ed \u0159idi\u010di, hladov\u00e9 pohledy na \u017eensk\u00e9 bradavky pod t\u00edlkem, postele s nebesy na pl\u00e1\u017ei, poz\u016fstatky osmansk\u00e9 kultury, \u010derstv\u00e9 ryby z jezera, nekone\u010dn\u00e9 kolony aut, okra na trhu, kav\u00e1rny jen pro mu\u017ee, obh\u00e1jci v\u00edry, kemp za 100 euro na noc v Bledu a lidskost.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8220;Tohle je neorganizovan\u00fd bordel, to nen\u00ed st\u00e1t,&#8221; \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 n\u00e1m drobn\u00fd majitel baru v alb\u00e1nsk\u00e9m Pogradci. \u010cist\u011b p\u00e1nsk\u00fd podnik se \u010dty\u0159mi stoly, kam m\u00edstn\u00ed mu\u017ei chod\u00ed na kafe a fr\u0165ana rakije, za\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 kulturn\u00ed \u0161ok, kdy\u017e do n\u011bj vtrhne moje kamar\u00e1dka, u\u010ditelka \u0159e\u010dtiny a feministka Alexia, p\u016fvodem z&nbsp;\u0158ecka a Saden z Karlov\u00fdch Var\u016f, p\u016fvodem z Ir\u00e1ku, a j\u00e1.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Vrchn\u00ed Petraqis, p\u016fvodem z Makedonie, otev\u0159e starou lednici a vynd\u00e1 n\u00e1m p\u00e1r piv. M\u00e1me hlad, ale k j\u00eddlu nic nem\u00e1. Proto Alexia zab\u011bhne vedle do obchodu, koup\u00ed v\u011bci na sal\u00e1t a osm dom\u00e1c\u00edch vajec. Petraqis se u\u017e vzpamatoval z po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edho \u0161oku, kr\u00e1j\u00ed zeleninu, vejce donese sv\u00e9 \u017een\u011b, kter\u00e1 je rychle usma\u017e\u00ed a zase n\u00e1m je po Petraqisovi po\u0161le. Kolem jde Alb\u00e1nec Elijah, a kdy\u017e vid\u00ed na\u0161\u00ed bujarou spole\u010dnost, p\u0159isedne si. U stolu zn\u00ed \u0159e\u010dtina, alb\u00e1n\u0161tina, n\u011bm\u010dina a \u010de\u0161tina.&nbsp; Pozveme ke stolu i rozpa\u010dit\u00e9ho Petraqise a vyzv\u00edd\u00e1me na n\u011bm, jak\u00fd je \u017eivot v Alb\u00e1nii.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex\">\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"137\"  src=\"https:\/\/mlausnsmnor5.i.optimole.com\/w:1024\/h:768\/q:mauto\/f:avif\/https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/kavarna-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-137\"\/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>D\u011bda si za\u017eil svoje a nebere si serv\u00edtky: &#8220;My tady m\u00e1me nerostn\u00fd bohatstv\u00ed, ale v\u0161ichni rad\u0161i st\u0159\u00edlej pro prachy. Je to st\u00e1t pro bohat\u00fd, ne pro chud\u00fd. Pracuju 38 let a dostanu d\u016fchod 180 eur. Tady je mafie v\u0161ude. Podplat\u00ed\u0161 ministra a m\u00e1\u0161 co chce\u0161.&#8221; V S\u00fdrii je plat 11 dolar\u016f za m\u011bs\u00edc,&#8221; p\u0159id\u00e1 se Saden. Narodil se a vyrostl v Bagd\u00e1du, m\u00e1 11 sourozenc\u016f a k tomuto dni 176 bl\u00edzk\u00fdch miluj\u00edc\u00edch p\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00fdch, kter\u00e9 nikdy nezvl\u00e1dne nav\u0161t\u00edvit v\u0161echny najednou. Elijah se v tomto okam\u017eiku rozpl\u00e1\u010de, um\u00edr\u00e1 mu matka na Alzheimra. V\u0161ichni ho ut\u011b\u0161ujeme a mysl\u00edme na vlastni matky. Jak miz\u00ed pivo a ub\u00fdv\u00e1 rakije ze sklenice, Elijah, otec dvou d\u011bt\u00ed, se sna\u017e\u00ed dr\u017eet Alexiu za ruku, Saden mi odhrnuje pramen vlas\u016f z \u010dela a \u0161kyt\u00e1, \u017ee mu p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1m jednu d\u00e1vnou studentku. S Alexiou na sebe mrkneme a opust\u00edme bar, ne\u017e si kdokoliv z nich uv\u011bdom\u00ed, co se stalo. Z&nbsp;baru vyb\u011bhne Petraqis, pod\u00e1v\u00e1 n\u00e1m ob\u0159adn\u011b ruku a \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee jsme v jeho p\u00e1nsk\u00e9m podniku kdykoliv v\u00edtan\u00e9. U\u017e dlouho se tak nebavil.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Broukem p\u0159es Balk\u00e1n<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Je to skoro t\u00fdden, co jsem p\u0159ijela za Alexiou do N\u011bmecka, kde studuje v mal\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b na Dunaji klasickou archeologii. \u010cek\u00e1 n\u00e1s dlouh\u00e1 cesta p\u0159es Balk\u00e1n v mal\u00e9m \u010dern\u00e9m volkswagenu broukovi. Alexia nava\u0159\u00ed vaj\u00ed\u010dka natvrdo, upe\u010de zeleninov\u00fd kish, oblo\u017e\u00ed chleby a rozmixuje hummus, z auta ud\u011bl\u00e1me kabriolet a vyjedeme sm\u011brem na Salzburg. Je\u0161t\u011b v N\u011bmecku se bohu\u017eel zasekne bo\u010dn\u00ed okno u auta, kter\u00e9 je te\u010f sta\u017een\u00e9 a nejde vyt\u00e1hnout nahoru. Postupn\u011b nav\u0161t\u00edv\u00edme t\u0159i servisy, a\u017e skon\u010d\u00edme v Audi u ple\u0161at\u00edc\u00edho automechanika. Chl\u00e1pek vyt\u00e1hne ok\u00e9nko ru\u010dn\u00ed silou a porad\u00ed n\u00e1m, abychom ho zajistily d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdm \u0161pal\u00edkem, proto\u017ee n\u00e1hradn\u00ed d\u00edl by p\u0159i\u0161el teprve za t\u00fdden. Riskneme cestu pres Balk\u00e1n v aut\u011b, kter\u00e9 podle Audi experta vylo\u017een\u011b zve ke kr\u00e1de\u017ei?&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>U bledsk\u00e9ho jezera ve Slovinsku je v\u0161echno zak\u00e1zan\u00e9. Sk\u00e1kat do vody, j\u00edst, plavat, d\u00fdchat i chodit. Kemp \u0160obec je pozd\u011b ve\u010der jedinej s&nbsp;voln\u00fdm m\u00edstem pro stan. Zaplatit ale cht\u011bj\u00ed za minim\u00e1ln\u011b dv\u011b noci, kter\u00e9 tady z\u016fstat nechceme. Firemn\u00ed politika kempu vel\u00ed, aby tady lid\u00e9 z\u016fst\u00e1vali co nejd\u00e9le, to n\u00e1m sv\u011b\u0159ila sd\u00edln\u00e1 sle\u010dna na recepci. Jedna noc pod vlastn\u00edm stanem v&nbsp;bou\u0159i by n\u00e1s tak vy\u0161la na 120 eur, a tak se sebereme a jedeme pry\u010d. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"577\" src=\"https:\/\/mlausnsmnor5.i.optimole.com\/w:1024\/h:577\/q:mauto\/f:avif\/https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Koupaliste-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-138\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Voda neodt\u00e9k\u00e1<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Po d\u00e1lnici do Z\u00e1h\u0159ebu, v&nbsp;bou\u0159i a vod\u011b, kter\u00e1 ze silnice neodt\u00e9k\u00e1. V&nbsp;chorvatsk\u00e9m \u0160ibeniku prej ho\u0159\u00ed a v&nbsp;mo\u0159i plavou hovna. Nic z&nbsp;toho nen\u00ed pravda, kdy\u017e vykoupan\u00e1 stoup\u00e1m k pevnosti sv. archand\u011bla Michaela. Zasn\u011bn\u00fd \u0160ibenik vym\u011bn\u00edme za Split s&nbsp;Diocleci\u00e1nov\u00fdm pal\u00e1cem. Jen\u017ee davy turist\u016f jsou jako facka, a tak se \u0161edes\u00e1tikilometrovou rychlost\u00ed uklid\u00edme do Bosny a Hercegoviny. Vjezd do Bosny se mi nepoda\u0159\u00ed. Projedu kolem budky s&nbsp;celn\u00edkem bez zastaven\u00ed, a ten m\u011b pak hon\u00ed, cel\u00fd rud\u00fd vysv\u011btluje, \u017ee jsem p\u0159ece \u201ein en\u00e1der k\u00e1ntry,\u201c a mus\u00edm proj\u00edt pasovou kontrolou. Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed m\u011b nezav\u0159ou a ani Alexii nezabav\u00ed kabriolet s n\u011bmeckou pozn\u00e1vac\u00ed zna\u010dkou, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1m dost komplikuje \u017eivot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Plastov\u00fd tr\u016fn<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ne\u017e vjedeme do \u010cern\u00e9 hory zavol\u00e1 Alexia sv\u00e9mu \u017e\u00e1kovi a podnikateli Draganovi, p\u016fvodem z&nbsp;Tivatu v&nbsp;\u010cern\u00e9 ho\u0159e, kter\u00fd \u017eije v&nbsp;Praze, ale v\u00edc by cht\u011bl \u017e\u00edt v&nbsp;\u0158ecku, jestli nen\u00ed n\u011bkde pobl\u00ed\u017e. Dragan je zrovna v&nbsp;\u0158ecku, ale jedn\u00edm telefonem n\u00e1m zajist\u00ed ubytov\u00e1n\u00ed a stravu u sv\u00fdch p\u0159\u00e1tel, man\u017eel\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed vedou rodinn\u00fd hot\u00fdlek skoro na hranic\u00edch s&nbsp;Alb\u00e1ni\u00ed v&nbsp;Ulcinj, kam pr\u00fd do roku 1968 jezdilo k&nbsp;mo\u0159i mo\u0159e \u010cechoslov\u00e1k\u016f, ale od t\u00e9 doby \u010ce\u0161i i Slov\u00e1ci na tohle kouzeln\u00e9 m\u00edsto zapomn\u011bli. Z&nbsp;Tivatu do Ulcinj jedeme sto let, proto\u017ee jedin\u00e1 silnice na pob\u0159e\u017e\u00ed je zoufale ucpan\u00e1. \u201eKdyby \u010cernohorci pou\u017eili blinkr asi by se naru\u0161ila rovnov\u00e1ha sv\u011bta,\u201c st\u011b\u017euje si za volantem Alexia. O to l\u00e9pe se c\u00edt\u00edme v&nbsp;n\u00e1ru\u010d\u00ed rodiny Pavlovi\u0107. Branka a Mihajlo v\u00edtaj\u00ed sv\u00e9 hosty stejn\u011b tohle l\u00e9to, jako p\u0159edchoz\u00edch t\u0159icet let, sed\u00ed vedle sebe na b\u011blostn\u00fdch plastov\u00fdch \u017eidl\u00edch jako starod\u00e1vn\u00e1 kn\u00ed\u017eata na tr\u016fn\u011b a my se jim za jejich pohostinnost ukl\u00e1n\u00edme a\u017e k&nbsp;zemi. Ulcinj m\u00e1 rozlehlou p\u00edse\u010dnou pl\u00e1\u017e, kde si za t\u0159icet eur koup\u00edme postel s&nbsp;nebesy, vlezeme si po nos do mo\u0159e, \u0161lapeme vodu a Alexia mi vypr\u00e1v\u00ed o sv\u00e9 partyz\u00e1nsk\u00e9 babi\u010dce, kter\u00e1 v&nbsp;\u0159eck\u00e9 ob\u010dansk\u00e9 v\u00e1lce bojovala s&nbsp;kulometem v&nbsp;hor\u00e1ch, ve st\u00e1\u0159\u00ed krmila des\u00edtky vnou\u010dat a vyznala se v&nbsp;hor\u00e1ch jako nikdo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/mlausnsmnor5.i.optimole.com\/w:1024\/h:768\/q:mauto\/f:avif\/https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/postel-s-nebesy-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-139\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Do Alb\u00e1nie nejezd\u011bte<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201eDo Alb\u00e1nie nejezd\u011bte! Je tam vedro a stra\u0161n\u00fd silnice. Kdy\u017e u\u017e tam mus\u00edte, necho\u010fte nikam v&nbsp;noci, hlavn\u011b ne do baru. Ob\u010das se tam lid\u00e9 ztr\u00e1c\u00ed,\u201c varuj\u00ed n\u00e1s Branka s&nbsp;Mihajlem. V\u0161echny pochyby ohledn\u011b Alb\u00e1nie odm\u00e1vneme a vjedeme do zem\u011b nekompromisn\u00edch \u0159idi\u010d\u016f, vynikaj\u00edc\u00edho j\u00eddla, drogov\u00fdch dealer\u016f a pohostinnosti. Kdy\u017e proj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme ob\u00e1van\u00fdm Elbassanem zp\u00edv\u00e1me si s&nbsp;playlistem Spotify Horolezci, horolezkyn\u011b, horolez\u010data, nelezte na sk\u00e1lu, kter\u00e1 je \u0161pi\u010dat\u00e1. Ubytujeme se v&nbsp;Pogradci a zanedlouho se v&nbsp;mal\u00e9 kav\u00e1rn\u011b u ohridsk\u00e9ho jezera n\u00e1hodou setk\u00e1me s&nbsp;\u010desky mluv\u00edc\u00edm Sadenem, kter\u00fd sv\u016fj roadtrip sm\u011b\u0159uje do Ir\u00e1ku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>V&nbsp;\u0158ecku se ka\u017ed\u00fdch deset let n\u011bco semele<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>P\u0159es celou Alb\u00e1nii vyhl\u00ed\u017e\u00edme \u0158ecko, kter\u00e9 m\u00e1 Alexia v krvi a j\u00e1 v srdci. Rozb\u00edj\u00ed moje romantick\u00e9 p\u0159edstavy o zemi zasl\u00edben\u00e9 \u0159eck\u00fdm boh\u016fm jednu po druh\u00e9. \u201eV\u0161imla sis jak Saden necht\u011bl mluvit o tom, \u017ee se p\u0159idal na konci 70. let 20. stolet\u00ed ke komunist\u016fm?\u201c pt\u00e1 se m\u011b Alexia. \u201eProto\u017ee v \u010cech\u00e1ch se o tom ned\u00e1 mluvit. V Ir\u00e1ku to byla jedin\u00e1 mo\u017enost boje za svobodu a \u0161ance na vzd\u011bl\u00e1n\u00ed. I tak, kdyby neemigroval, \u010dekal by ho trest smrti.\u201c Zazvon\u00ed telefon. Alexia mluv\u00ed se svou m\u00e1mou, kter\u00e9 v Ath\u00e9n\u00e1ch cik\u00e1ni vykradli auto. Sledovala zlod\u011bje p\u0159es sv\u016fj ukraden\u00fd iphon a\u017e do cik\u00e1nsk\u00e9 no go z\u00f3ny, kam by policie nevkro\u010dila, proto\u017ee by po nich cik\u00e1ni st\u0159\u00edleli boucha\u010dkama. N\u011bkter\u00e9 v\u011bci najde p\u0159\u00edtel Alexiiny m\u00e1my v kontejneru. &#8220;Medzi hovny t\u00fdch \u010diern\u00fdch kureuv,&#8221; rozoh\u0148uje se Slov\u00e1k Lubo\u0161, kter\u00fd tam musel vl\u00e9zt. Kdy u\u017e \u0158ecko za\u010dne splachovat ty \u201eposrat\u00e9 papierky\u201c do z\u00e1choda, pokl\u00e1d\u00e1 Lubo\u0161 nezodpov\u011bditelnou \u0159e\u010dnickou ot\u00e1zku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V \u0158ecku se ka\u017ed\u00fdch deset let n\u011bco stane, nikdy tady nen\u00ed klid, vypr\u00e1v\u00ed mi Alexia. \u0158ecko m\u00e1 za sebou bou\u0159liv\u00fd v\u00fdvoj, stalet\u00ed osmansk\u00e9 nadvl\u00e1dy, kter\u00e1 \u0158eky a Turky propojila v&nbsp;nedobrovoln\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edbuzenstv\u00ed, je\u017e si ani jedna strana nechce p\u0159iznat. V\u00e1lky za samostatnost, sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky, odchod tis\u00edc\u016f \u0158ek\u016f ze Smyrny, okupaci ze strany It\u00e1lie, Bulharska a N\u011bmecka. Ob\u010danskou v\u00e1lku, kter\u00e1 n\u00e1rod vyvr\u00e1tila ze sousedsk\u00fdch ko\u0159en\u016f, vlastn\u00ed koncentra\u010dn\u00ed t\u00e1bory na opu\u0161t\u011bn\u00fdch ostrovech pro protivl\u00e1dn\u011b a protifa\u0161isticky sm\u00fd\u0161lej\u00edc\u00ed \u0158eky, roky diktatury, strachu a exilu. Na jednu zemi s deseti mili\u00f3ny obyvatel je toho a\u017e dost.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Pan\u00ed Bovaryov\u00e1<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>V&nbsp;\u0159eck\u00e9 Kastorii se s&nbsp;Alexiou rozlou\u010d\u00edm. Jede ke sv\u00e9 rodin\u011b a j\u00e1 autobusem do Konitsy v&nbsp;hor\u00e1ch na hranici s&nbsp;Alb\u00e1nii. Nikoho tam nezn\u00e1m a okoln\u00ed lesy se pr\u00fd hem\u017e\u00ed vlky a m\u011bdv\u011bdy. P\u0159es okoln\u00ed divo\u010dinu je pobyt v&nbsp;Konitse jako sestoupen\u00ed do rom\u00e1nu Gustava Flauberta Pan\u00ed Bovaryov\u00e1. Kolem m\u011b sed\u00ed mlad\u00ed lid\u00e9, ale du\u0161e maj\u00ed star\u00e9, propleten\u00e9 meandry \u0159eky Aoos a \u017eivoty sv\u00fdch p\u0159edk\u016f. Spole\u010dnost mi d\u011bl\u00e1 Konstantin, u kter\u00e9ho jsem ubytovan\u00e1 p\u0159es Airbnb. \u0158eck\u00e1 spole\u010dnost m\u011b vs\u00e1kne jako houba. Kolem n\u00e1s se mihne Konstantin\u016fv strejda Stavros, b\u00fdval\u00fd \u0159idi\u010d kamionu, styd\u00ed se, \u017ee nemluv\u00ed dob\u0159e anglicky, a tak rychle odch\u00e1z\u00ed. Opod\u00e1l se zastav\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed bl\u00e1zen, hromotluk v&nbsp;r\u016f\u017eov\u00e9m tri\u010dku a ledvinkou, n\u011bco si pro sebe muml\u00e1. K\u00fdv\u00e1m zachmu\u0159en\u00e9mu kn\u011bzi a Konstantin zdrav\u00ed prodava\u010de meloun\u016f. Konstantin tady zastupuje inteligenci. Vystudoval anglistiku a angli\u010dtina ho \u017eiv\u00ed. Pt\u00e1 se m\u011b, v&nbsp;jak\u00e9m m\u011bs\u00edci slav\u00edm narozeniny. Kdy\u017e \u0159eknu, \u017ee v&nbsp;z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed, podotkne, \u017ee jsem \u201evirgin.\u201c Omluvn\u011b se usm\u011bju. Virgin teda u\u017e nejsem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-opt-src=\"https:\/\/mlausnsmnor5.i.optimole.com\/w:768\/h:1024\/q:mauto\/f:avif\/https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Kajak-1.jpg\"  decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg%20viewBox%3D%220%200%20768%201024%22%20width%3D%22768%22%20height%3D%221024%22%20xmlns%3D%22http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%22%3E%3C%2Fsvg%3E\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-140\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Nekecej a p\u00e1dluj<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Druh\u00fd den m\u00e1m nastoupit k&nbsp;t\u00fddenn\u00edmu pobytu v&nbsp;Nikosov\u011b kempu No Limits. M\u00edsto, kter\u00e9 nab\u00edz\u00ed span\u00ed v&nbsp;korun\u00e1ch strom\u016f, sj\u00ed\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed divok\u00e9 \u0159eky Aoos a horsk\u00e9 t\u00fary, mi doporu\u010dila Alexia a vlastn\u011b neexistuje mo\u017enost, jak se o n\u011bm dozv\u011bd\u011bt, pokud nem\u00e1te v&nbsp;mal\u00edku \u0159e\u010dtinu. Nikos o ciz\u00e1ky extra nestoj\u00ed. Se mnou nem\u00e1 na vybranou, kdy\u017e u\u017e jednou v&nbsp;Konitse jsem a do kempu m\u011b dokonce milostiv\u011b doveze ve sv\u00e9 k\u00e1\u0159e, kde mi tv\u00e1\u0159 olizuje jeho pes Hermes. Kemp to \u00fapln\u011b nen\u00ed &#8211; d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e1 bouda a t\u0159i domky postaven\u00e9 v&nbsp;okoln\u00edch stromech. Stromov\u00e1 apartm\u00e1 jsou pr\u00fd zabran\u00e1, a tak skon\u010d\u00edm v&nbsp;boud\u011b na ne dvakr\u00e1t \u010dist\u00e9 pry\u010dn\u011b. Kemp provozuje \u0161edes\u00e1tilet\u00fd Nikos, jeho pes Hermes a Alb\u00e1nec Florian, kter\u00fd odd\u0159e tu nejhor\u0161\u00ed pr\u00e1ci, ze kter\u00e9 \u017eiv\u00ed sv\u00e9 dva synky a \u017eenu. Jak budu sp\u00e1t je mi celkem ukraden\u00fd, \u017ee tady nen\u00ed \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 mo\u017enost si koupit j\u00eddlo, je mi taky fuk, proto\u017ee tyhle podru\u017enosti nejsou d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd, kdy\u017e m\u00e1m na dosah tu nejpr\u016fzra\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u0159eku a okoln\u00ed hory. Odpoledne se poflakuju kolem \u0159eky a sleduju Nikose, kter\u00fd zrovna vypravuje \u0161koln\u00ed v\u00fdlet na t\u0159ech velk\u00fdch raftech na vodu. Kdy\u017e m\u011b uvid\u00ed, nab\u00eddne mi, a\u0165 se k&nbsp;nim p\u0159id\u00e1m, s&nbsp;\u010d\u00edm\u017e nad\u0161en\u011b souhlas\u00edm, jen\u017ee m\u00edsto aby m\u011b Nikos posadil na raft k&nbsp;ostatn\u00edm, uk\u00e1\u017ee na kajak pro jednoho, hod\u00ed mi p\u00e1dlo a \u00fase\u010dn\u011b se zept\u00e1, zda jsem to u\u017e n\u011bkdy d\u011blala, nem\u00e1m odvahu p\u0159iznat, \u017ee ne, a tak sebev\u011bdom\u011b k\u00fdvnu, Nikos m\u011b odstr\u010d\u00ed od b\u0159ehu za vzdaluj\u00edc\u00edmi rafty a pak u\u017e jsem jen v rukou bo\u017e\u00edch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img data-opt-src=\"https:\/\/mlausnsmnor5.i.optimole.com\/w:768\/h:1024\/q:mauto\/f:avif\/https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/Motorka-2.jpg\"  decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" src=\"data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg%20viewBox%3D%220%200%20768%201024%22%20width%3D%22768%22%20height%3D%221024%22%20xmlns%3D%22http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg%22%3E%3C%2Fsvg%3E\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-141\"\/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Dodnes nech\u00e1pu, \u017ee jsem ten \u00fasek pln\u00fd pe\u0159ej\u00ed, skal a popadan\u00fdch strom\u016f p\u0159e\u017eila. Lid\u00e9 z&nbsp;raftu se m\u011b sna\u017eili navigovat, ale marn\u011b. Prost\u011b jsem se nechala un\u00e1\u0161et vodou, co\u017e pr\u00fd je p\u0159esn\u011b to, co nem\u00e1te d\u011blat. Nikos m\u011b na smluven\u00e9m m\u00edst\u011b vyt\u00e1hl z&nbsp;vody jak mokrou ko\u010dku, ale tento z\u00e1\u017eitek n\u011bjak stvrdil na\u0161e nerovn\u00e9 p\u0159\u00e1telstv\u00ed. Po zbytek pobytu m\u011b Nikos oslovuje d\u016fv\u011brn\u011b \u201e\u010ceka,\u201c nave\u010der m\u011b voz\u00ed na motorce po hor\u00e1ch, ve\u010der nal\u00e9v\u00e1 ouzo a sna\u017e\u00ed se m\u011b zapojit do \u0159eck\u00e9 konverzace s&nbsp;ostatn\u00edmi obyvateli kempu. Kdy\u017e po t\u00fddnu odj\u00ed\u017ed\u00edm, hroz\u00ed mi, a\u0165 se nevrac\u00edm, dokud se nenau\u010d\u00edm po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b \u0159ecky.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Balk\u00e1n jsou antibiotika na z\u00e1n\u011bt st\u0159edn\u00edho ucha bez p\u0159edpisu, nejslad\u0161\u00ed nektarinky, agresivn\u00ed \u0159idi\u010di, hladov\u00e9 pohledy na \u017eensk\u00e9 bradavky pod t\u00edlkem, postele s nebesy na pl\u00e1\u017ei, poz\u016fstatky osmansk\u00e9 kultury, \u010derstv\u00e9 ryby z jezera, nekone\u010dn\u00e9 kolony aut, okra na trhu, kav\u00e1rny jen pro mu\u017ee, obh\u00e1jci v\u00edry, kemp za 100 euro na noc [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":143,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_mi_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[29],"tags":[],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/136"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=136"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/136\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":147,"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/136\/revisions\/147"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/143"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=136"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=136"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/vladkastory.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=136"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}